Australian costume designer Orry George Kelly, known professionally as Orry-Kelly, was BOTD in 1897. Born in Kiama, New South Wales to an English-born father and an Australian mother, he attended high school in Wollongong, and was sent to Sydney to study banking, escaping to pursue a stage career. After studying art, acting and dance, he moved to New York City in 1921, sharing an apartment with the then-unknown Cary Grant, with whom he had an on-again off-again relationship. He found work as a tailor’s assistant and a mural painter for nightclubs and department stores, leading to work as a set and costume designer for Broadway plays, and a title-card designer for Fox Film. In 1931, he moved to Hollywood, where Grant helped him to gain entry into First National Pictures, earning his first film credit as costume designer in 1932’s The Match King. The following year, he was appointed chief costume designer at Warner Bros, scoring his first major successes with the 1933 musical film 42nd Street, the historical drama Madame du Barry with Dolores del Río, and Baby Face and The Gambling Lady with Barbara Stanwyck. He formed a close working relationship with Bette Davis, dressing her in Dangerous, Jezebel, The Petrified Forest and Dark Victory, even following her to England where he dressed Davis and Olivia de Havilland in The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex. He had similar success with Katharine Hepburn, dressing her and Grant in the screwball comedies Bringing Up Baby, Holiday and The Philadelphia Story, and Grant in Arsenic and Old Lace. His greatest successes came in the 1940s, as he shifted towards serious drama and film noir, dressing Davis in The Letter, Now, Voyager and The Little Foxes, Ingrid Bergman in Casablanca, Merle Oberon in Affectionately Yours and Temptation and Mary Astor in The Maltese Falcon. During World War Two, he served in the US Army Air Corps, though was discharged due to his problems with alcoholism. Returning to Hollywood, his drinking led to friction with studio head Jack Warner, who dismissed him in 1944. He returned to Fox for three years, then worked successfully as a freelance designer, dressing Ava Gardner in One Touch of Venus, Leslie Caron in An American in Paris, Rosalind Russell in Auntie Mame and Gypsy, Shirley Jones and Gloria Grahame in Oklahoma!, Marilyn Monroe, Jack Lemmon and Tony Curtis in Some Like It Hot and Shirley MacLaine in Irma la Douce. He won the Oscar for costume three times, for An American in Paris (shared with Irene Sharaff), Les Girls and Some Like It Hot, a record exceeded only by Sharaff and Edith Head in his lifetime. His last major success, the 1962 film of the musicalGypsy, starring Rosalind Russell and Natalie Wood, earned him his fourth Oscar nomination. Unhappily gay, Orry-Kelly socialised with many of Hollywood’s closet cases, including Grant, Randolph Scott, William Haines and George Cukor, though little is known of his personal life or relationships. He died in 1964, aged 66. His unfinished memoir Women I’ve Undressed was published posthumously, inspiring the 2015 documentary Women He’s Undressed.


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